Understandably, I had sworn off going back into the water.  My comfort zone was telling me I had tested my luck enough but my mind was telling me you have to surf.

After digging deep, and not having been in the ocean for 7 years, I convinced myself I had to do it.  I rented a surf board and started paddling out.

As I was paddling out I was looking cautiously around me but also entranced by the natural beauty.  Swimming right next to me was a dark figure and in an instant I could feel my heart nearly stop.  

I was so proud of myself for pushing through my comfort zone and pursuing my desire to surf and I instantly regretted it for what I thought was my last experience with the ocean.

A few seconds later, a head emerged, and my paralyzing fear turned to excitement.  Swimming next to me was a beautiful sea turtle.  I sat there and paused for a moment to appreciate what I had overcome.

I continued out and proceeded to teach myself how to surf and was one of the most gratifying things I had ever done.

Taking it slow, I only stayed just close to shore where the small waves were rolling in.  But, a few hundred yards out, there was another reef where the big waves were breaking.  While I wanted to catch one of the big waves, I accepted my novice skill level and stayed within my newly acquired comfort zone.

I was proud I had gotten over my fear and taught myself how to surf but I left thinking I hadn’t pushed myself enough.  

Having been through the pandemic and travel being shut down, a college friend and planned a trip out to Hawaii once travel had opened back up in the summer of 2021.

With the thought of not catching the big waves off in the distance in the back of my mind, I knew I couldn’t leave without at least trying.

My friend had never surfed before but was open to trying so we rented boards and paddled out.  Muscle memory kicked in and I picked right up where I had left off 3 years before and I instantly caught a wave.  Since he was still learning he hung around the small waves.

A weather change had recently made the waves larger than usual which meant the bigger waves were even bigger.  My fear of the ocean is still alive and well and it was no different that day. 

As I left the safety of the hundreds of people surfing the beginner waves, I paddled out into the lonely stretch of water in between the beginner waves and the larger waves a few hundred yards out.

The only thing I could think of was turning back because I was scared.  As I looked 30 or so yards to my left I saw about a 10 year old girl heading for the big waves.  That was all the motivation I needed to keep going. 

Once I reached the large waves I waited until it came.  What I didn’t know at the time was there was a set of 3 waves that would roll in and then a long period of calm flat seas in between.  To me, any wave out there was big so when the first wave started forming I started paddling.

Being inexperienced I mistimed the wave and got up for a second only to be thrown off.  If you have never surfed before, your surf board is attached by a string to your ankle so it doesn’t get away from you.  Perfect in that situation, but bad if you get thrown off and the board keeps going.

I was pulled under the rip current and popped up just long enough to catch my breath, only to be hit again by the second and then third even larger waves coming directly after it.

This alone was enough for me to question, why did I think I could do this?  I should just go back to comfort of the small, short lived waves.  

Something inside me though knew I couldn’t go back again without achieving my goals. So, I paddled the long journey back out to the waves after being drug back closer to shore. When I was on that wave, I also realized no one else had tried to surf it.

I first wrote it off as they didn’t think the wave was big enough, which it probably wasn’t, but also the second or third wave might be better.  If nothing else other than being pounded by the following waves after finishing the wave.

This time, I decided to skip the first wave and go for the second.  I let the first wave pass and started paddling for the second.  This time having timed it better, only to realize someone else had gotten it first and was heading right for me.  

Being inexperienced I jumped off my board, only to be drug back in again by that wave and the following.

At this point I was exhausted and wanted to give up.  Again something inside kept telling me, you have to do this.

One last time, I paddled out for the big waves.  

Each time I paddled out in the long stretch of open ocean by myself I was taken back to swimming in the open ocean from the shark attack.  It took a lot just to overcome that thought only to be beaten up by the waves and have to do it all over again. 

I arrived at the big waves in a period of a lull.  There could be as much as 5 minutes or more in between each set and I had just paddled over the recent set, which was exhausting.

With the next set coming, I prepared myself.  I told myself this was my last chance and if I didn’t get it I was done and would have to wait again to try the next time I make it back out there.

I let the first wave pass and got ready for the second.  This time I timed it perfectly and there was no one close by.  In excitement I carved straight down the wave and picked up some serious speed.  The feeling though, was completely indescribable.  

It felt like I was floating on air.  I quickly realized I had traveled straight down instead of parallel to the wave and was now completely out in front of it.  This means that as quick as my excitement had begun, it was already over as you need to keep the momentum of the wave to keep going. 

I came to a stop and let it pass me by.  While I didn’t get to revel in the experience for very long, I knew the achievement alone was enough.

I spent the rest of my allowed time back in the small waves and just enjoyed the opportunity to enjoy being in the ocean for once.

Had I never pushed out of my comfort zone, time and time again, I would never have achieved my goals of truly surfing a wave and getting the whole experience.

While it is comforting to only stick to your comfort zone, eventually you will realize you are leading a life unfulfilled.

Whether it’s sticking to a workout program that constantly pushes you, starting a new business, or learning a new skill you have a high likelihood of failing, you must push out of your comfort zone.

The growth you achieve from learning to overcome your comfort zone is exponential and is just like a muscle you workout in the gym.  The more you do it, the larger your comfort zone becomes and the easier it is to continue to push past it.